It’s eel season. While their smoky eely goodness is available in Japanese restaurants year-round, the Wurundjeri traditionally recognised March as eel season. It’s about now that fat eels begin their spawning migration (so are more easily trapped).

Something of an enigma to Western science, much about eels remains unknown. We know they spend their lives in fresh water. And that somewhere between 10 and 20 years of age their bellies turn silver and their eyes widen – sure signs they’re about to embark on a 3000km migration to spawn. It’s thought they travel to somewhere between Samoa and the Coral Sea where they spawn, then die. The baby eels are then transported back to the estuaries on currents. During this year-long journey, their physiology changes: adapting from salt to fresh water, they eat for the first time and, importantly, become male or female.

Apart from on the plate, you can see eels in the Botanic Gardens and at Bunjilaka - where they are fed each day at noon. Or, exchange chocolate eggs for eel this Easter and take a tour with Budj Bim Tours (5527 1699) at Lake Condah in southeast Victoria, with eel tasting $25 per person or a full lunch for $60.