Who’d of thought 13-year-old bread could be so sought after? Fatto a Mano’s organic sourdoughs are born from teenaged ‘starter’ that’s in its second generation – handed on from the previous owners (remember the revered Gertrude Street Organic Bakery?).

Starter is the essence of sourdough – a live culture that reproduces itself, and requires daily feeding. Fatto a Mano’s starter went with Sandra and Mario (bakers and owners) on their Christmas holiday and has had a few babysitters in its time.

There’s a little bit of starter in every loaf, be it: white, rye, honey and walnut or pumpkin and cumin. Each one is also a double-riser, left to rise for about 10 hours, then massaged into shape and left to rise for another…well...until it's ready. Sourdough is a fickle thing, loaves are left to rise for between 12 and 16 hours, sometimes 24.

The only thing fast about this place is the rate at which the produce leaves the shelves. Breads, pastries and sweeties are all fatto a mano (made by hand) and available Tuesday to Friday 8am-6pm and Saturday 8am-3pm.

Fatto a Mano: 228 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy. Phone 9417 5998.